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Clunk/thud Sound

#21 User is offline   C-note Icon

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Posted 19 January 2012 - 04:35 PM

View Postpdw, on 19 January 2012 - 04:13 PM, said:

I'll look into those wires for sure. The smoke is really embarrassing.

I went out for about an hour today and couldn't get the noise to happen once. I want to be sure I'm not hallucinating before it goes in.
Super fluffy snow could have been the reason for that.
We got over a foot this morning.

I took a pic today, this is the only "safe" spot I could stop without risking getting stuck. It's up to the hood in some areas.
God I hate that windshield.....

LOL,, it's not like it's a 1997 Polaris Ultra, that when it has even 1/3 of its width off trail in 10-11" of powdery snow and comes to a stop, needs 2-3 guys to pull the skis to assist it into moving without burying itself! :D :P

That thing should handle 1.5-2' of powder no problem especially with the cobra 1.325 lugs under it
Keep a fire extingusher in your garage! (And in the Lodge Kitchen!)

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#22 User is offline   pdw Icon

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Posted 19 January 2012 - 06:26 PM

View PostC-note, on 19 January 2012 - 04:35 PM, said:

LOL,, it's not like it's a 1997 Polaris Ultra, that when it has even 1/3 of its width off trail in 10-11" of powdery snow and comes to a stop, needs 2-3 guys to pull the skis to assist it into moving without burying itself! :D :P

That thing should handle 1.5-2' of powder no problem especially with the cobra 1.325 lugs under it

It's well past my knees in most spots. This area had good tree cover allowing me to stop for a pic
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#23 User is offline   pdw Icon

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Posted 26 January 2012 - 08:58 AM

View PostC-note, on 17 January 2012 - 02:39 PM, said:

the (IMHO) best investment you could do with this sled is hang a pair of nology hotwires on it,, over 90% of the original issues (prior to ecu update) will be gone,, I KNOW!! Mine had the same issue,, only smokes pretty good upon initial cold start up and first time throttled to put into motion,, clear as a bell after that,, even 10-12 minutes idle time and it's ready to rip at a flip of the go-lever!


Whats the part number on these wires, I can't take the smoke anymore its too much. My sled literally gets lost in smoke when I warm it up. Even after 10 mins warm-up on a race stand, it takes a good mile to clear it out and stop smoking all together.

I haven't seen or read anywhere of anyone else using these on a SP5....

Will this affect anything else or just clear-up the smoke issue?
Will it run hotter, will I need to change anything ?
Running 87 octane and Klotz TC-W3 synthetic will still be fine?
Stock plugs o.k?
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#24 User is offline   C-note Icon

  • Cat Mounted Trail Shredder
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  • Group: Members
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  • Location(By road).. 61 miles from HEAVEN :) ... (OR about 50 as a crow flies)
  • My Sled(s):'10 SP50L/C
    '97 ZR44L/C
    '91 EXT65L/C VSE
    '90 WC65L/C
    '89 WC65L/C,,,,,,, just to name a few
  • My Atv(s):My SUV... 250k+ of pure fun.

Posted 26 January 2012 - 09:10 AM

View Postpdw, on 26 January 2012 - 08:58 AM, said:

Whats the part number on these wires, I can't take the smoke anymore its too much. My sled literally gets lost in smoke when I warm it up. Even after 10 mins warm-up on a race stand, it takes a good mile to clear it out and stop smoking all together.

I haven't seen or read anywhere of anyone else using these on a SP5....

Will this affect anything else or just clear-up the smoke issue?
Will it run hotter, will I need to change anything ?
Running 87 octane and Klotz TC-W3 synthetic will still be fine?
Stock plugs o.k?


PN: 012 001 032 Call Jeff Klein direct @ 760-591-0869 and tell him you were referred to him by Rusty on Ai.com,, he'll set you up with a good price

Not too many truly understand the function of these on over rich engines and therefore think they're a bust,, I and a lot of guys on here KNOW better!

No, will not affect anything else as long as you get PN's listed above

Will not run hotter, just cleaner and no need to change anything either

87 and Klotz will be fine,, and yes, stk ORIGINAL plugs are still in mine
Keep a fire extingusher in your garage! (And in the Lodge Kitchen!)

michigansnowcams.com

"Any man who thinks he can be happy and prosperous by letting the Government take care of him, better take a closer look at the American Indian." - Henry Ford
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#25 User is offline   pdw Icon

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Posted 22 March 2014 - 11:12 AM

Any thoughts on this... There doesnt seem to be play

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#26 User is offline   C-note Icon

  • Cat Mounted Trail Shredder
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  • Group: Members
  • Posts: 1914
  • Joined: 09-December 10
  • Location(By road).. 61 miles from HEAVEN :) ... (OR about 50 as a crow flies)
  • My Sled(s):'10 SP50L/C
    '97 ZR44L/C
    '91 EXT65L/C VSE
    '90 WC65L/C
    '89 WC65L/C,,,,,,, just to name a few
  • My Atv(s):My SUV... 250k+ of pure fun.

Posted 22 March 2014 - 01:19 PM

Best thing to do is pull the 3 torx head bolts and plate, then go over to chaincase side (after tipping sled up to around a 45* angle),, then open case cover, loosen top nut and remove it about 1/2 way to keep shaft from dropping out, loosen chain a bit and push shaft inwards about 1/2",,,,,,,, then go back to other end and rotate shafts bearing to see if it has ANY detectable slack OR roughness,,,,, it it does, replace it!!

To contineue removing the shaft, FIRST, lock the brake on (to keep rotor positioned) then follow procedures I had listed on threads previous page..
Keep a fire extingusher in your garage! (And in the Lodge Kitchen!)

michigansnowcams.com

"Any man who thinks he can be happy and prosperous by letting the Government take care of him, better take a closer look at the American Indian." - Henry Ford
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